Banglamphu district in Bangkok Chinatown district in Bangkok Dusit district in Bangkok Rattanakosin district in Bangkok Thonburi district in Bangkok

The Ko Rattanakosin (เกาะรัตนโกสินทร์) area is the oldest part of Bangkok. Located by the river, this is where most of Bangkok's main historical attractions are, for example Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho. These impressive sights aren't the only things to do in Ko Rattanakosin however, and many of the other sights are within easy walking distance.

'Ko' is the Thai word for 'island', but this is no longer really an accurate term for this area. It was so named due to Bangkok's extensive canals in the late 18th century which surrounded the area but nowadays most are filled in and you'd be hard pressed to realize what there used to be while walking or driving around it.

Just to the north of Wat Phra Kaew is the large park known as Sanam Luang (สนามหลวง). For most of the year it's nothing special and barely worth a visit, though the spires of Wat Phra Kaew certainly provide it with an impressive backdrop. It's a somewhat more colorful place during February to April when it's a popular place for kite flying.

At the southeastern corner of Sanam Luang, and close to the northeastern point of the Wat Phra Kaew compound, is Saan Lak Meuang (ศาลหลักเมือง, below), the 'city shrine'. This is the official center point of Bangkok, and the point from which distances to and from Bangkok are measured. Thai tradition dictates that every city has a foundation stone, in which lives the city's guardian spirit, responsible for the power and well-being of the city. Although not especially interesting in itself, it is believed to grant peoples wishes and so receives large numbers of worshippers. There's always floral tributes piled up, and the smell of the burning incense fills the air inside. This is especially so in the couple of days leading up to the lottery draw.

Across Sanam Luang and a short way up Na Phra That road is Wat Mahathat (วัดมหาธาตุ), one of Bangkok's most important wats though it's not particularly inspiring to look at. It is famous as a meditation center, as the headquarters for the country's largest Buddhist sect, as a Buddhist university and for it's royal associations (King Mongkut, Rama IV, was a monk here). If you have an interest in Buddhism, weekly English seminars are given here and it's also possible to study here. In the grounds of Wat Mahathat, and more interesting for the average visitor, is the the large amulet market. Best visited on weekends and the occasional Buddhist holy day, when it extends to nearby Phra Chan road. Found here is a fascinating range of food, clothes, amulets, talisman, herbal remedies, Buddha images, and alms bowls and orange robes used by monks. There is also another, much smaller, amulet market near Tha Chang pier.

A little further north on Na Phra That road is the National Museum. Nearby is the National Theater (โรงละครแห่งชาติ), where genuinely authentic classical Thai dance and music can sometimes be seen, and the National Art Gallery where contemporary and traditional Thai art is on show. Silpakorn Fine Arts University (มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร), also near Tha Chang pier is another place for this.

Further north still on Na Phra That road is Thammasat University (มหาวิทยาลัยธรรมศาสตร์), Thailand's second most prestigious after Chulalongkorn University (near Siam Square). It's notable for the radical reputation of its students, and was founded in 1932 by Pridi Panomyang who orchestrated the bloodless coup which overthrew Thailand's absolute monarchy the same year. In another infamous incident, hundreds were killed or wounded here by a Thai military crackdown in 1976. Visitors are free to tour the grounds of the university.

Details

There is no entry charge for Wat Mahathat. The National Art Gallery is open 09.00am to 4.00pm, and costs 30B. The gallery at Silpakorn is open 08.00am - 7.00pm on weekdays, 08.00am - 4.00pm on weekends.

This whole area is a favourite haunt of con artists, so be very wary of friendly strangers who stop you on the street and ask where you're going - chances are it's part of a sophisticated gem scam.

Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew, and the National Museum are all located within Ko Rattanakosin, and hence are easy to reach from any of the sights here. The sights in the Banglamphu district are also not so far away.

It is easy to get to the sights in this area on the river, the Tha Maharat and Tha Chang express boat piers are both well located for these sights. Lots of buses stop in the area around Sanam Luang, including ordinary buses 3, 15, 30, 32, 43, 44, 59, 64, 70, 80, 123 and 201, as well as aircon 6, 7, 12, 39 and 44. All the sights can be reached on foot from Sanam Luang.

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