Banglamphu district in Bangkok Chinatown district in Bangkok Dusit district in Bangkok Rattanakosin district in Bangkok Thonburi district in Bangkok

Thonburi (ธนบุรี), or fang ton as it's often called, lies across the Chao Phraya river from the Ko Rattanakosin area, and tours on longtail boats (reu-a hang yao) round it's numerous khlongs (canals) are popular. Few visit it outside of these. It was briefly Thailand's capital in the 18th after the fall of Ayuthaya, until Rama I moved his court across the river to Bangkok.

The longtail boat trips will leave from various piers on the eastern side of the Chao Phraya river, and typically head south and turn into Thonburi past Krung Thep bridge. It's an interesting experience, and gives an idea of what Bangkok might have been like before most of it's canals were filled in. There are lots of tours available, or go to one of the boat piers and charter one. Any between Tha Oriental and Tha Chang should have places to do this, though Tha Si Phraya, Tha Chang and Tha Saphan Phut are the best. Another place is the River City complex near to Tha Si Phraya. Look out for touts who will get a commission by directing you to a particular place. Bargain carefully beforehand to establish the price; if you're offered a "free guided tour" it will end with a demand for petrol money in the middle of the river which you can hardly refuse. Fair prices are around 300B/400B per boat per hour.

The first stop on a tour may be at the Wat Sai floating market - which died out as a genuine floating market about 40 years ago. It exists nowadays solely for tourists, even the Tourism Authority of Thailand describe it as a place where "boats assemble to sell souvenirs to visitors". It's pretty much a waste of time, a much better option for seeing a floating market is at Damnoen Saduak. Not far away is the uninspiring snake farm, which has shows every 20 minutes or so. It doesn't seem to look after it's animals particularly well - a superior option is the snake farm near Siam Square that is affiliated with the Red Cross, is more professional and is cheaper.

Better are the Thonburi temples that follow. The huge and impressive Wat Kalaya Nimit houses a very large Buddha image and murals from the time of King Rama III. Also interesting are the Chinese statues in the grounds. South of here is Wat Prayoon wong, notably for it's artificial hill with miniature chedis, trees and a pool teeming with turtles.

The highlight of Thonburi is the 80m high Temple of the Dawn, Wat Arun, which is also easy to visit without the longtail boat trips. North of here, at the mouth of Khlong Bangkok Noi, is the Royal Barges Museum. This houses around 50 ornately designed longboats, used by the King to present robes to the monks at the Krathin festival (in October / November). The barges were restored for Bangkok's, and the Chakri dynasty's, 200th anniversary in 1982. The most prestigious and impressive of all the barges is the Sri Suppanhong, which was constructed during the reign of King Rama I (1782 - 1809). The name means "golden swan", after the swan which has been carved into the bow. This is the boat that the King himself would travel in, and it's statistics are impressive: It's 45m long, 3m wide, weighs 15 tons, and was created from a single bit of timber. It requires over 50 oarsmen, along with other crew such as a rhythm keeper, singer and a flagman. Nowadays, this spectacle only happens once every few years and should not be missed if you are lucky enough to be there at the time.

Not far away is Wat Suwannaram, which is mainly notable for it's murals dating from the time of King Rama III. They were designed by professional painters, and are considered almost universally as Bangkok's best. One depicts the ten lives of the Buddha, the other the victory of the Buddha over Mara. Wat Rakhang, near Wat Arun, is another interesting temple.

Details

The snake farm costs 70B to go in. The Royal Barges Museum is open everyday from 8.00am to 4.30pm, and costs 30B per person but charges 100B extra if you wish to take any photos (or 200B extra for a video camera) - though they are quite impressive, it's hard to justify this kind of fee. The temples (not including Wat Arun) are free, except for Wat Rakhang which charges 20B.

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